|
Mahale Mountains National Park
Set deep in the heart of the African interior, inaccessible by road and only
100km (60 miles) south of where Stanley uttered that immortal greeting “Doctor
Livingstone, I presume”, is a scene reminiscent of an Indian Ocean island beach
idyll.
Silky white coves hem in the azure waters of Lake Tanganyika, overshadowed by
a chain of wild, jungle-draped peaks towering almost 2km above the shore: the
remote and mysterious Mahale Mountains.
Mahale Mountains, like its northerly neighbor Gombe Stream, is home to some
of Africa’s last remaining wild chimpanzees: a population of roughly 800,
habituated to human visitors by a Japanese research project founded in the
1960s. Tracking the chimps of Mahale is a magical experience. The guide's eyes
pick out last night's nests - shadowy clumps high in a gallery of trees crowding
the sky. Scraps of half-eaten fruit and fresh dung become valuable clues,
leading deeper into the forest. Butterflies flit in the dappled sunlight.
Then suddenly you are in their midst: preening each other's glossy coats in
concentrated huddles, squabbling noisily, or bounding into the trees to swing
effortlessly between the vines.
The area is also known as Nkungwe, after the park's largest mountain, held
sacred by the local Tongwe people, and at 2,460 meters (8,069 ft) the highest of
the six prominent points that make up the Mahale Range.
And while chimpanzees are the star attraction, the slopes support a diverse
forest fauna, including readily observed troops of red colobus, red-tailed and
blue monkeys, and a kaleidoscopic array of colourful forest birds.
You can trace the Tongwe people's ancient pilgrimage to the mountain spirits,
hiking through the montane rainforest belt – home to an endemic race of Angola
colobus monkey - to high grassy ridges chequered with alpine bamboo. Then bathe
in the impossibly clear waters of the world’s longest, second-deepest and
least-polluted freshwater lake – harboring an estimated 1,000 fish species -
before returning as you came, by boat.
|